Originally published on: 8/29/2006 4:23:10 AM
Plants grown in a carefully prepared chemical soup, recycled water and carefully controlled parameters that results in bigger, healthier plants year round is just plain cool. I've got a couple of books now and have read dozens of websites.
I know that I'm prone to wanting to try a big, complex setup out of the gate. Because I know this, I now force myself to try a basic setup of something new before getting in too deep. As such, I gave the most basic kind of setup a shot.
Basically, the plants sit in plastic baskets filled with rockwool (an inert, lightweight material that holds onto moisture). Those are suspended just barely into a solution of water and a whole pile of nutrients. At the bottom of the nutrient broth are airstones (from aquariums) that pump oxygen into the nutrient bath and the roots of the plants. This gives the plant roots all that they need: nutrients, water and oxygen.
The result is usually plants that grow phenomenally well, even indoors. For my first setup, I'm aiming for herbs to cook with. The first plants to go into it are stevia, which is an herb that's extremely sweet. My intent is to harvest the leaves for sweetening my tea without artificial sweeteners and without calories. I got 4 plants initially, but will be giving a couple of them away to other people.
The rest of the 6 slots will be filled with basil, oregano, mint and parsley. I am NOT growing any form of cannabis and am not encouraging anyone else to do so. Because this method of gardening works indoors, under artificial light, it's the favorite choice for growing illegal plants, hidden in closets, etc. While I think that drug policy in the United States is wildly out of whack, I will not be held responsible for anyone getting arrested after building something that I explain how to build.
Anyway, that said, I ordered the stevia plants just before things got nuts at work and they had to sit in temporary quarters until this past weekend. Finally, on Sunday, I had the time to put this little contraption together. It ended up only taking about an hour and didn't cost much either.
What you need is this:
To actually explain the build process, View the Tutorial on Flickr.
There are 2 quick notes that you should also know. The photos don't include one change that should be made. When you cut the holes for the net baskets, unless you want the baskets popping back up, you should cut out a bunch of the tabs around the edge. Second is that the air pumps are NOT waterproof and should only be run under dry conditions. I'm just running mine when I'm home and it's not raining. I'll be moving it inside as soon as I get lights set up and that will eliminate the problem.
Now, how long have you had it growing, and is it working well.
This seems like it would be perfect for the Instructables website.
I think you mean CO2 Carbon Dioxide, not oxygen.
However, a $60 lighting setup will keep nearly all herbs growing inside after the transition.
You might want to read this article from the USDA to learn a bit more about what happens when roots are deprived of oxygen.
Most plastic tubs have some sort of plasticizer added to make the walls more flexible. This is particularly noticable in Sterlite tubs (Walmart sells these): they feel tacky after a few months of use. The tacky feel comes from small amounts of the plasticizer that migrate to the surface of the plastic. As the plasticizer leaches out, the walls lose their flexibility and will creak and leak given enough time.
Also, unless the tub is black, uv light (ie, sunlight) will attack the polymer; the end result is also a more brittle container. You can mitigate this by covering the exposed areas in aluminum foil (this will help scare away birds as well).
Good luck.
Congrats on getting picked up on the Makezine blog!
http://www.makezine.com/blog/archive/2006/08/set_up_a_hydroponic_herb_garde.html
Also, most of these containers have been basically approved as foodsafe. They're used regularly in aquarium setups with no ill effects.
As far as bugs, I haven't had this long enough to know. However, taking cuttings that are clean of bugs and starting those for the indoor season would get around that. Basically, completely shutting down the outside garden and start new plants for inside during the winter. In a few weeks, when the frost threatens, I'll see what happens.
Regards,
Ryan
otherwise I will wait until I get home and measure...
Given a desire to have fresh herbs, year-round, there are several solutions.
1. Buy them at the grocery store. Costs $3 per little bundle. It only takes 20 packets to total $60. If this is the only alternative, it could easily pay for itself in a couple of months.
2. Grow them outdoors. Not viable in the VAST majority of the United States. Those places where it *is* viable are not places I would ever want to live.
3. Grow them indoors in dirt near a window. The same places where they won't grow outside don't have enough light in the winter, leading to supplemental lighting, which puts it in the same category equipment-wise.
4. Grow them hydroponically. Compared to the others, it's not uneconomical.
Second, this is a hobby for lots of people. That puts the money spent on this into a priority system that makes sense only to the people participating. The same holds true for time.
I can pretty much guarantee that you spend that kind of money in some way every month that I would consider uneconomical.
And, as for the "wasteland" comment, how exactly is that not supposed to offend? I'll take Minnesota over anywhere else in this country, 7 days a week and twice on Sunday. In nearly every measure of quality of life, Minnesota and Minneapolis land near the top of the lists. Other places rank highly in *some* lists, but Minnesota ends up surprisingly high on *most* of them.
Of course, most of us secretly like it when people ignorantly call this place a wasteland because it keeps the riff-raff out and from being overpopulated. In other words, by flying under the radar, this place *stays* a great place to live.
Based on your IP address, you're in the Bay Area, which *I'd* never even consider living in.
I love fresh herbs in food and want to thank you for the time in putting this page together. I like Minnesota by the way, nice area.
I've got a couple of really basic questions. Does the pump have to be run 24 hours a day? How deep in the solution do the cups lie? Since you've spent all that time on the web getting info, could you make a recommendation for a site that you'd consider the best place to learn about hydroponics?
P.S. I'm from MN, and it is an awesome place to live. Not there now, but I do miss it (except Winter :P ).
Thanks.
It doesn't really matter whether the plants grow in dirt or soup; the bottleneck in the majority of the country will be light. For the 6-plant setup in the photo above, one would probably need 100W of lighting say 12 hours a day, which should translate into around $3-4/month for electricity.
Let's consider the example of basil, which costs about $3 per foot-high plant in my local supermarket, and grows out to that size in around 2 months assuming it's started from cuttings. Then, we could grow about 3 bundles per month, valued at $9/month. Not a bad deal.
I like the other guy's idea for LED lights, I wonder what their light output per Watt looks like.
I would've tried to fit more plants in that box by squeezing slightly smaller cups into a 3,2,3 hex-grid.
TRussell
Knoxville, Tennessee
I really need to rig up a better way to suspend the lights over the plants. You want them pretty close to the top of the plants and straight above. My biggest problem in the current indoor setup is that because my lights aren't straight above, I'm constantly fighting plants that are growing crooked toward the light. Some of that can be compensated for by rotating the plants, but it's still a hassle.
TRussell, this setup does work, though I've made changes since publishing. I'm using smaller baskets and more of them. I'm also now using an aquarium powerhead instead of the airstones.
The powerhead still has an input for the airhose. However, it does a better job of keeping the water moving. Given the gas exchange all takes place at the surface, the combination of keeping the water moving and churning bubbles into it maximizes the surface agitation.
If you were to build such a setup for a school, I'd recommend putting the tub setup on the floor and building a PVC frame to suspend 4 ft shop lights on adjustable chains so you can raise them as the plants grow. If you put bulbs of different color temps on each side of the shop light, you'll more approximately match natural light and that could be a lesson in itself.
I looked into the LED lighting, and it seems their efficiency is actually much lower than fluorescent. One advantage is that LEDs output light at very narrow wavelengths, making it possible to put together two-tone blue-red lamps that hit the light absorption sweet spots of the two most abundant types of chlorophyl in plants; I couldn't find any data on how much efficiency gain this targeted coloring brings for plant growth.
Great stuff. Looking to do something similar. I have some questions if you don't mind.
1) How do you keep the resevoir level at/near the proper level? Do you have to check it everyday? Also, do you have issues with algae in the tub?
2) Do you do anything to the water before mixing it with the nutrients to remove chlorine, etc.?
3)As you move your system indoors, have you considered air purification, e.g. ozone to control the smells that are derived from bacterias in the soils/system?
4)Also, what lighting are you looking at indoors, T5, HPS, etc?
Drill a couple of small holes into some 1/2" PVC long enough to go from the bottom of the reservoir to a bit above the lid. Drill another small hole in the top of the lid and put the length of PVC through it so it touches the bottom. Then, take a wooden dowel that will fit inside the PVC and drop it into the PVC. It will float and stick out of the PVC pipe. Take a Sharpie and mark the dowel for where the "right" level is. The first time you re-fill, mark the "fill" spot and you've got an external gauge of when it needs to be filled.
Algae issues are mostly caused by light. If you use opaque plastic tubs and make sure not to shine light into the reservoir, it's not too big of a deal. When it becomes a big deal, I just clean it out with a weak bleach solution, rinse and set up again.
I have looked at air purification setups, but haven't had much odor issue yet. One design I kind of like is taking a couple of furnace filters (the thicker white ones rather than the flimsy blue ones). Dump a bunch of activated charcoal (aquarium supplies again) to cover one of the filters. Then, put the other on top, to create a sandwich with the charcoal in the middle. Hang that in front of (or strap to the back of, etc.) a box fan and you'd probably be surprised how well it sucks up smells.
I'm only using cheap fluorescent lights, but that's at least in part to keep electrical costs down and I'm not after record-setting crops. In fact, I'm going to have to pull some basil out of the setup because I don't use it fast enough.
Of course, if you push that too far, you'd be filling several times per day to keep adjusting for evaporation, absorption, etc. So, I aim for about a half-inch into the water and it seems to work OK for me.
For the 40 leds I used 25 reds, 8 blues, 6 greens and 1 ultraviolet for each container in the following combination.
5 parallel strings of 5 red leds.
5 parallel strings of 3 leds made up of either blue,green or the ultraviolet one.
I had the green and ultraviolet and thats why I used them. What I read is that plants like red and blue.
I put a 150 ohm resistor in each parallel string and for a power source I used a 500ma +12v DC wal-wart.
I made up 3 of these led light containers and all three together draws about 450ma.
Easy to mount as I just screwed the bottom of the plastic containers to the bottom of a pine shelf, put the top ( containing the leds) on and thats it.
Again, nice project indeed
My garage isn't insulated and my house is kind of small, I wonder if i can rig up some kind of hotbox for something like this.
I've been doing a ton of reading on this and it sound like tomatoes require a good amount of sunlight so you may want to supplement your light with some florescent. Herbs don't require near the light that they do and I'm actually going to attempt to grow some in my house under a florescent light.
Everyone should give it a try.
The light is another reason. Just a bit of fluorescent light and your herbs will grow fine. Tomatoes require more.
The final reason is that I think herbs like mint can lead to lessons about these plants being where the mint flavors in candy (always a favorite kid topic) come from. If you grew spearmint and peppermint, etc. they can taste right from the plant, you can mix up sugary mint drinks, etc.
You could do the same with tomatoes, but mint just seems like an interesting classroom project to me especially given the growing conditions.
I figured these questions would make more sense on this posting, as opposed to the link above.
Which size net cups did you end up using for single herb plantings?
Which powerhead did you switch to from the airpump/airstones? Has this made an noticeable improvement over the airstones?
The point is that the roots can be submerged with no ill affects, provided the water is aerated sufficiently. Remember the hydroponics exhibit at Epcot? Those roots were also completely submerged.
Thanks
Cheers,
i have a question
i am just starting off and i am glad that you have this website up and running!
my question is, how deep do the baskets need to be submerged into the water mix?
This is a basic, cheap, but very functional hydro system. It is very responsive because the roots are in the nutrient solution.
Hopefully you don't have any problems with bugs when you bring it indoors. Great post!
For those of you with questions, do a quick google search. I did and found many, many similar efforts - complete with plans, directions, maintenance, etc.
One thing I noticed is that other folks seem to clean out their system with a bleach solution every cycle or so to prevent fungus, rot, etc.
Another thing I noticed is that you can achieve more efficient "aeroponic" (vs hydroponic) results by simply lowering your water level and putting a small submersible 'pond' pump at the bottom. You attach some thin black flexible tubing to it and run it straight up to just above your water level, and just below the plant roots. Essentially, you create a "sprinkler" head that draws up the water and mists the roots. I guess it provides more oxygen for the roots or something. Anyways, you then just put a timer on the pump cord and you can have that thing going on & off all day on cycles or whatever.
This solution also means you won't have to worry about keeping the water level just right. You only need to make sure the water never dries up, leaving your pump to burn up. Regardless of water height, the sprinkler head's height will be constant and your spray area will cover the whole interior.
good luck
Nice work J, and thanks for your donations to the community!
However, I thought I'd share a technique I've used for supporting tomatoes without using stakes or cages in my greenhouse. I plan to do this again with tomato plants growing in the hydroponic plastic tubs. Attach a nylon-coated clothesline cord to a hook at some height above the tomato plant (as high as possible for those indeterminate varieties that grow tall), tie knots down the line every 12 inches or so, and suspend over the tomato plant. As the plant grows, use pieces of panty hose or little velcro ties to gently tie the stem of the plant to the cord just above a knot. As the plant grows taller, you can add more ties to the cord to continue supporting the tomato. I suppose if you'd like to try this outside, you'd have to find something to attach the clothesline cord to - perhaps a deck railing, or a wall.
Happy gardening, everyone.
We are in the same thoughts J.
I love hydroponics also which consider contributed a lot J.
But one thing for sure in Hydroponics Gardening there are some pest that may harm your hydroponics gardening
check this out http://hydroponicsdictionary.com/insects
Thanks for your info.
($60 is small change in the Bay Area...I don't think you could buy dinner for that there.)
I wanted to ask you how often do you need to change out the nutrient solution/water mixture? Also does the little blue piece of tubing that prevents your house from frying come with the air pump? If not what is it called?
Thanks again!
I very successfully grew tomatoes and basil. The peppers were not happy in the hydroponic setup. If anyone has suggestions on growing peppers this way, I'd love to hear. Lauren