1000 Miles Per Gallon with Electric Bike?
In case it's missed your attention, car-based transportation is expensive.
The gas alone at 25 miles per gallon is $0.12/mile at $3/gallon and is closer to $0.13 a mile with this week's spike to $3.20/gallon. When the prices drift toward $4/gallon you're soon paying $0.16/mile for gas.
However, most of the alternatives aren't really that much cheaper. Most hybrids drop the fuel cost from the $0.12-$0.16/mile to more like $0.06-$0.08/mile. Throw the actual cost of $25,000 vehicles, depreciation, insurance, repairs, etc. and even the $0.445 that the IRS allots for car cost seems low.
Now, what about cruising along with the wind in your hair at 20 mph without getting sweaty or even having to pedal? What if that only ran $0.003 in fuel and the complete vehicle costing less than $500? That's what electric bikes offer.
Given that the safe bet is for $4 gas and $5 gas within the next couple of years (hey, we still had $0.85 gas in 1999), and the fact that I can currently take all city streets to get to work (nothing over 40mph speed limits), I decided to do a bit of digging into supplementing my Geo Tracker (which already gets 25-30mpg) to keep my transportation costs down.
Beyond the purely financial benefits is the fact that most of these designs allow for pedaling to supplement the electrical system, meaning some exercise can still take place without the whole dripping-in-sweat experience of normal bike commuting.
So, what are the options?
First, after a first pass of reading about this stuff (which actually happened last year), I had a couple of design parameters.
I knew that I didn't want a dedicated electric bike or scooter. When the system is based on a regular bike, you can easily swap bits out to improve performance, comfort, looks, etc. Whether it's pulling the electrical off of the bike and putting it on a better bike or upgrading motors, batteries, etc., a system based on a regular bike just makes modular sense to me.
I also am not going to consider weight or regenerative braking very seriously. In the bicycle world, lighter components cost more. And, "lighter" usually means by a few ounces. 10 or 20 pounds extra on the bike itself isn't going to affect the project nearly as much as having to spend an extra couple of hundred bucks for lighter versions of things like batteries. Besides, if I want to get rid of weight, it's a lot cheaper to get rid of it off of my body than off of the bike. Before I start worrying about how heavy the bike is, I should drop 30 pounds myself.
That lack of concern about vehicle weight (at this scale it's not nearly as big of a problem as in a car) is driven by another parameter: distance over speed. I'd rather have a system that can go 20 miles on its own and 30 with pedaling, but can only go 12 mph than one that can go 25 mph for 10 miles. That means that I'm heading toward the biggest batteries that make sense, even though they'll weigh more and reduce maximum speed. Somewhere in between the ultra-light batteries and pulling a trailer full of them is a balance between those things.
So, what are the options?
One option is the hub motor kit that is sold in a variety of places. This is currently the frontrunner plan. The 600W motor and 36V system runs about $350 most places. I like this option because it's easy to install, doesn't require any messing with gearing, sprockets, etc. to transfer power from the motor to the wheel.
This kit includes the battery setup too, which you should watch for in other kits. Lots of them are sold at much higher prices and don't include even basic batteries. Installation of these hub motor kits is reasonably simple from what I can see.
Given that I always like to know what all of the options are, I've also looked into a few other designs.
One of them is the Bidwell bike pusher. It's basically a little trailer containing the motor and batteries that pushes the bike along. The guy who wrote it up has filed a patent though the only thing particularly inventive about it is the coupler that hooks it into the bike.
The biggest problem with that design is common to the rest of the R.Q.Riley designs. They all are based around tearing apart a specific existing product and then building the design. That leads to designs that don't age well. Many of their early designs are based on the original VW Beetle, which was plentiful when they designed the conversions, but they're much harder to come by now. I prefer a more off-the-shelf type of design.
This particular design is based on a scooter that runs about $400 where I looked. That puts even the Bidwell + cheap Target bike at the $500 mark.
However, I think that a similar device could be built with individual components and make the result much more powerful. This 1000W motor is $100 instead of the 350 watt motor that comes from the scooter that the Bidwell specifies.
When you pair it with a controller at $50, you're set for a lot more power with lots of money left over for the batteries (the other major component) and the misc wheel/gear bits.
I did buy a copy of their plans and wasn't impressed. Among other things, they have a section where they mention adding an MP3 player and their explanation of how to do that is pretty much, "add some speakers and an mp3 player". If you look at the patent, you've got all of the useful information on the device.
So, at any rate, what I'm planning on for next spring is a basic Target bike and the hub motor kit. Once I run some numbers on that first setup, I'll start tweaking things like smoother tires, bigger batteries, etc. I'm also planning on using a plugin electric meter that I bought a while back to monitor exactly how much juice goes into the charging to measure how many killowatt hours are actually used to move my carcass around.
Eventually, I'd like to have a recumbent trike with a 1000W motor and enough batteries for some serious range. That will have to wait. I'm also curious about what it would take to combine 2 of these hub motors to do the trike.



